We’re going to spend a couple of posts showing you how to repair a sandwich board, or really any board that has a crease. We haven’t finished the repair just yet, but hopefully by the time we catch up to our progress, in the blog, we’ll have it complete!
But before we launch on that topic, do you follow us on Facebook? We’ve had some really good conversations on naming convetions. We are fortunate to have several very knowledgeable folks that read the blog and also have some pretty intense knowledge of other sports. We talked about that ollie 3 the last few days and then we were corrected by some folks to call it an alley oop. We’ve never really liked that name, because in other sports like surfing and snowboarding an alley oop is really closer to what WE, in wakesurfing, call an air 3. Plus where the hell is that oop part! So some of the snowboarding experts Marie-France Noel and Daryl Lussier (thanks guys for taking the time to read AND comment!) pointed out that what we are referring to as an ollie 3 is probably referred to as an air to fakie to surface 180 elsewhere. Also, in surfing and snowboarding an alley oop is very particular about the landing, the shoulders and board have to be 180 to the original direction of travel.
Anyway, how do you judge the quality of a trick when we really don’t have a clear definition of it, we call it something that no one sport does and what other sports call the actual trick name, we don’t do? It really comes down to “I like that” or you’re the most promoted athlete in this division, I guess you do it best. Have you seen those commercials for Vivint, where they proclaim your home is dumb? Exactly!
So to us, this trick really isn’t an alley oop as it’s commonly called, but something else. We like the name ollie 3 and we also like the idea of some standardization in naming, defining and expanding tricks. We aren’t trying to convince YOU to call it an Ollie 3, just defining our position in this regard.
So back to the crease repair. Principally, what we are doing is digging down to “unbroken” material, replacing that material with the same stuff and then rebuilding the area exactly like the original. The reason that we use all the same materials is so that we don’t create an artificial stress point. You might think that it would be BETTER if we replaced the broken area with a stiffer, stronger material, but what happens is then directly outside of that stronger material becomes the focus for all stresses in that area. The area all around it flexes and bends at a specific rate, if you will, but the striffer area doesn’t so stresses travel to that area and BAM, stop! When replace all of the broken material with the same stuff, the stresses can travel further and then have a chance to dissipate.
Anyway, we dig down to find unbroken material and then replace what we dug out!
The first step in the process is to clean up the surface area, so we remove dirt, wax, grime and sponsor stickers!
We use a small laminate router to sort of just barely remove the bottom skin of the board. The depth, in this case, was set to about 1/10 th of an inch…
It’s a little hard to see, but if you look closely in the center of the routed area, you can see the dust that gathered in the crack in the eps foam. So that area is still damaged. We actually can measure at this point and get a really good idea of how deep the damage went, but we did a few passes to not go too far past the damage to fresh foam. It wound up being about 3/8 of an inch deep. When you can’t quite tell how deep the damage is, we just do several passes taking away just a little bit and then inspect to see if we’ve removed all of the damaged area. If not, another pass. If we got it all, time to move on.
The picture above was taken after a few passes of the router, we think it was 3, adjusting down about 1/8th of an inch or so with each pass. Just prior to that we did a quick test for water. One of the biggest problems with surf craft if there is water inside, is that it’s impossible to get a good glue joint. Epoxy won’t really adhere well to wet foam, plus the water is then trapped inside waiting to heat up and delaminate. The easiest way to test for dampness is to press a sheet of paper up against the exposed foam. If there is water or dampness in there, the paper will come out blotchy or spotted.
The paper pushing test didn’t result in any stains or wetness, so we went ahead and routed the bad material out. If we had found water, we would have dried the area out before doing anything more.
The next step in repairing the crease is to bevel the area so that the side of the repair aren’t totally vertical. We want to create a gradual transition to the new lamination and material, rather than an abrupt change from old to new. We’ve sort of bevel ground the whole area to achieve that gradual transition.
Ok that’s the preparation phase of the repair! We’ve identified the damaged area and then dug down to remove it all. Then finally bevel ground all around the area to be repaired so as to create that gradual transition from old to new material. The next phase will be to rebuild it all using the same materials as the original!
Thanks so much for following along, we appreciate it.